Δευτέρα, 13 Φεβρουαρίου 2017

Interview with the great Gloster breeder, Victor Xerri from Malta!

Victor Xerri is a great Gloster from Malta.He is a very good friend of mine and it was a big honor and pleasure to be invited to his birdroom. The thing that really impressed me in Victor, is the way and the love that he shows when he is talking about birds.His hospitality is a typical "Greek". Honestly, i feel very lucky when i have the opportunity to visit and talk with breeders like Victor.Although his country is small, there are a lot of breeders epecially gloster breeders.I hope that i will see him judging in my country!!!



Victor with Rob Wright





Q.1: In what age did you start breeding canaries?

My life was always birds & feathers since I was a little child. From the age of 9 years till now never stayed a day without a bird at home.  I started breeding canaries bout 25 years ago, as I started with ordinary or common canaries.


Q.2: Why did you decide to breed Gloster canaries? it was family tradition? Love at first sight or you just like this type?

In our family none of us is or was a breeder. I started breeding Gloster canaries cause I liked the bird especially the corona ones & the type of the bird it self



Q.3: How many pairs do you breed now? The past years?

At the first time I started breeding canaries I started with 4 pairs , then the number of pairs kept rising up at the moment I keep between 50 & 55 pairs each year.



Q.4: How many square meters is your bird room?

My Bird room is 17 feet x 13 feet x 14 feet.     ( sorry I don’t know how to change them to square meters)



Q.5: Do you have sun lighting or lamps?

As I  don’t have to much sunlight in my brid room I use 3 LED tubes of 5 foot each & 3 60 watts halogen bulbs to with a dimmer for sunrise & sunset that dims the light on & off within 30 minutes time.



Q.6: What type of cages do you use?

My breeding cages are boxes made off 9 mm ply wood with a vertical wire front .


Q.7: What are their dimensions?

They are 2 foot long x 1 feet width  x 1 feet 3 inches high which they can be divided in 2 cages of 1 foot each which I use when I start training my birds.



Q.8: Do you think that a flight cage is necessary? What dimensions do you prefer

Flight cages are always necessary especially for the young birds after have been weaned until their moulting period, but I use my flight cages for my hens before the breeding and even for the cocks before the breeding cause some exercise will do them for good . About the dimensions of the flight cages all I  can say is one thing , the bigger they be the better they are, I have 2 flight cages of 7 feet 6 inches long x 34 inches high x 3 feet width.



Q.9: Do you have the same mixture of seeds whole the year? What do you change per season?


I feed my birds 3 different mixture of seeds , I use Super breeding canary seed in breeding time till moulting is finished, than I change of mixture to Show canary seed and after show season I change my mixture Light canary seed. I always use the same brand of seeds.


Q.10: What type of egg food do you use?

I use 2 different kind off egg food which are Orlux eggfood dry bu Verselle Laga & Moist Amarillo Fly Pate by Raggio di Sole .



Q.11: How many times per year do you disinfect your bird room?

I do the palstering & painitng of my birdroom once every two years but I disinfect my cages twice a year, before the breeding season and after the breeding season, that takes me nearly two weeks cause I wash the cages twice with 2 different disinfectants .



Q.12: Can you tell us a tip, what to do when we are choosing the birds to be pairs? benefits of cocks, benefits of hens etc.

Well, this is the most delicate part of the game. When you start choosing your birds you have to select all kind off birds not only show birds some times the worst bird in you bird room might be a big help for your breeding season. First thing I do is selecting all the hens that I think that will help me in produce competitive birds , than I  start selecting the cocks now the hard work is coming , when you are selecting the cocks you have to look carefully to each hen to see with which hewn the cock will be the best and keep going till you pair all the hens one by one , sometimes happens that you cant find a perfect cock for the right hen so in that occasion you just the hen for the last and than take another look carefully maybe you can change or use a cock with 2 hens.
It is very important that you always keep the records of your breeding season from the year you have started  so when you’re  doing the selection (especially hens) make sure that hens are coming from good parents that they raise their young without any problem, if an unflighted hen is coming from a mother parent that doesn’t raise her young well better send her away.
The most important thing is that don’t keep any birds with faults that are heritable cause you will have a mess in your bird room.



Q.13: How many births do you have from one pair?

It depends but most prob 2 nests , there will be some expectations that I will have 3 nests and even 1 nest but in a very rare occasion..



Q.14: Do you use foster parents? what type of canaries?


I only use fostering parents when a hen abandon  the eggs or die while sitting on eggs but if a hen abandon her young ones even at 1 day old I will do the rest of the job.  I have a small egg incubator , put the young one in and hand raise  them my self with a special crop needle with Hand Mix by the brand Orlux, Verselle Laga.
You need to have big patience and a lot of time cause the have to be fed nearly every hour just a little by little
( as I forget to tell I am retired so I have many time )



Q.15: In what age do you start the training for the young birds?


I start training my young birds as soon as I wash & disinfectant the breeding cages after the breeding season. First i start with coronas with ones from first round cause they’ll be advanced in their moulting I always keep the consorts for last but still I start training them in the early September , 3 months  before our Annual Gloster Show.


Q 16: Gloster canaries are very popular in Malta can you tell us a few words for your club?


Yes, Glosters canaries are very popular in Malta as we are just a small island and our population is small but the club which I  show my birds has over 80 members. We have 2 glosters clubs in Malta which are : Malta Gloster Breeders Society that it was est. 1996 so last year it was its 20 years anniversary & is the only club that I am whole member in it and show my birds & the other club is Maltese Gloster Associtation which was formed 2 years ago... There are other Bird clubs that you can show glosters too but the other clubs are clubs of all species not just glosters...















Σάββατο, 11 Φεβρουαρίου 2017

Ireland, Cobh show 2017 !!! Report by Eugene Healy!

A great and successfull show in Ireland, the Cobh show.
Cobh and District Bird Show Society held its Annual show on the 7th&8th January 2017
It was a very successful show and attracted birds from all over Ireland  There was a great entry of 1100 birds.  On Sunday there was a great attendance, many fanciers buying and selling their birds in the packed car park. We also had an auction on Sunday morning and the Cobh members are extremely grateful to fanciers who donated their birds for the Auction.
On Saturday night there was a gathering at the Bella Vista Hotel for music and refreshments (ceol agus craic)and a most enjoyable night was had by all, its not just the birds can sing.
The show would not be a success without the hard work done by the ladies Committee they cater for everyone for the whole weekend
Results;
The Best In Show Martin Daniels (Intensive Red Ivory Cock)
(Kindly Sponsored by Alan Dempsey)
Second Best In Show Jimmy Barnes (Mule)
Third Best In Show John Fitzgerald (Border)
Best Yorkshire canary in show Alan Dempsey
Best Norwich canary in show and best champion Michael&Gerry Kinahan
Best Novice Norwich Micheal O Regan
Best Border in show & Best Champion John Fitzgerald
Best Novice Border Ken Murphy
Best Irish Fancy in show & Best Champion Tim Watson
Best Novice Irish Fancy John Barron
Best Gloster in show & Best champion Edward Loughran
Best Novice Gloster Robert Heffernan
Best Red Colour Canary & Best Champion Martin Daniels
Best Novice Red Colour Canary Noel Horan
Best Melanin in show & Best Champion Aidan Moloney
Best Novice Melanin Noel Horan
Best Fife in show & Best Champion J&P Shelock
Best Novice Fife Anthony O Donovan
Best Native in Show & Best Champion Brendan Buckley(Goldfinch)
Best Novice Native Trevor Cullinane (Grennfinch)
Best Mule/Hybrid in Show & Best Champion Jimmy Barnes
Best Novice Mule/Hybrid Anthony Hayes
Best Foreign in Show J&P Sherlock
Best Bengalese in Show & Best Champion Philip Mohally
Best Budgerigar in Show Garry O Connor
Best Lizard canary in Show & Best champion Keith Stevenson
Best Novice Lizard Canary Jimmy Rolston Best AOV J&P Sherlock
Best Decorated Cage Kyle O Mahony
Best Pet Budgie Amber & Fionn O Mahony
Best Junior Yorkshire Alexandra Horgan
Best Junior Norwich Alexandra Horgan
Best Junior Red Sophie & Daniel Meehan
Best Junior Melanin Sophie & Daniel Meehan
Best Junior Fife Kyle O Mahony
We would like to thank the Judges Exhibitors,& Visitors and hope to see you all next year and the very best of luck for the breeding season



Eugene Healy, thank you for your friendship and your support!


















Well done lads!

Πέμπτη, 2 Φεβρουαρίου 2017

Σεμιναριο για το φτερωμα, Κυριακη 5/2/2017

Ενα πολυ χρησιμο σεμιναριο απο τον κορυφαιο εκτροφεα και κριτη Alain Nottet. Το διοργανωνει ο ΑΣΕΚ και η εισοδος ειναι ελευθερη. Δεν γνωριζω αν θα βιντεοσκοπηθει αλλα πιστευω οτι ειναι εξαιρετικα χρησιμο.

Τετάρτη, 11 Ιανουαρίου 2017

The "bible"of all fanciers,Linda Hogan's "The Complete Canary Handbook: A Collection of Canary Tales"

An excellent book for all the canary breeders not only for the begginers.You can find a lot of infos for nutrition, breeding , diseases, all the standards of the canaries ,etc. Strongly recommend this great book!!!


Linda Hogan achieved master breeder exhibitor status in color-bred canaries and German Rollers.She became a judge and hold judging credentials from the Central States Roller Canary, National Colorbred, Stafford Canary, North American Border and Old Varieties Canary Associations.She has judged shows all over the US including Puerto Rico and Canada. Her book "The Complete Canary Handbook, Canary Tales" is in its 14th edition and sells worldwide. In a typical year, she breeds around 150 canaries. Her current aviary includes German Rollers, Borders, Staffords, and Colorbreds.
You can find and order this book easily ,with a simple search 

Κυριακή, 8 Ιανουαρίου 2017

CANARY BREEDING FOR BEGINNERS! by Anthony Olszewski

STARTING A CANARY FAMILY
Canaries are not social by nature. Outside of the breeding season, canaries should always be kept apart. Male canaries fight with each other, sometimes with fatal results. He might also kill the female, if she is not ready to breed. Several canaries may be kept, in separate cages, in the same room. This sort of arrangement will encourage the males to sing, but is not necessary for the bird’s health or well being.
When not breeding, it is not always easy to tell the male canary from the female. Only the male sings and only the female will build a nest. During the Summer and early Fall, it takes a well informed canary fancier to detect the gender of a bird hatched that year. When shopping for a hen, go to a store that will guarantee the bird – allow a replacement if the wrong gender is supplied.
Canary hens are generally in good supply from mid-summer until early autumn. With nesting finished for the year, fanciers sell off their excess birds. They are not easy to obtain at other times of the year. Plan to purchase the female at the earliest opportunity. This will give the bird a chance to adjust to her new home. Very rarely are productive hens sold during the breeding season. Female canaries that are put up for sale then are most often either past their prime or are poor mothers.
The canary breeding season is controlled by the number of daylight hours that the birds experience. Throughout most of the United States, if the birds’ cages are kept covered from dusk to dawn, your canaries will most likely wish to breed sometime around Valentine’s Day. The hen will let you know her intentions by furiously shredding any available paper, feathers, or plant material. She should now be provided with a plastic or wire canary nest that is available from your local pet shop. Be sure to ask for the special nest liners, in case your hen does not weave a proper nest. The liner may be sewn into the nest or glued. Check to see that the glue is completely dry before putting the nest in with the bird. Do not try to use a wicker finch nest. Your canary will probably ignore the finch nest. If, in desperation, she does use the basket sort of nest, you will be unable to inspect the eggs or babies. A plastic or metal nest can be cleaned and sterilized, wicker can not.
A regular canary breeding cage comes equipped with two dividers:one solid, one wire. Keep both in place, until you see the hen canary start to build her nest. Then, remove the solid partition, but leave the wire one in place. Now wait until you see the birds kissing through the bars. At this point they should be united. Remove the wire partition. Watch for any lover’s quarrels. Don’t let any wife beating take place! If this happens, immediately separate the birds. Remember, it most often only will get worse.
If your birds are in pet style cages, just keep the cages alongside each other. The rest is the same as above.
The hen lays up to eight small blue eggs. Five is the average number. She will very often not sit on them until the last one is produced. Two or three days after she starts to sit, the eggs may be carefully removed and held up to a light. You will make out the outline of the embryo and the network of veins nourishing it. If you can see right through every egg, put them back in the nest and wait five days before checking them again with the light. If the eggs are still clear, showing no sign of an embryo, discard them. This gives the birds a chance to go to nest for a second try. Wash your hands before handling the eggs, for germs, oils, and chemicals on your hands can pass through the egg shell. This might kill the developing chick.
Canary eggs hatch in 14 days. This is counted from the day that the hen starts to sit on the eggs, not from the day that the egg was laid. The canary chick hatches without any assistance from you or the parents. The little chick enters the world blind and naked, adorned by only a few wisps of down. The parents provide all care for the young.
Canaries that are starting a family must have perfect diets. They need a vitamin enriched seed in front of them at all times. Every day, every bird should get a small dish of nestling food. This provides extra protein. Also, on a daily basis, the birds must get a small piece of fruit or vegetable, any healthy item you eat yourself. In addition they need grit and cuttlebone as sources of calcium for the eggs. Many good vitamin preparations are sold to completely ensure a balanced diet. Pellet and other processed feed preparations have been formulated as complete diets. These may also be used, but I do suggest to also provide small amounts of fruits and vegetables, just to be on the safe side.
If nutrition is adequate, the hen most often lays the eggs with no problems. Sometimes, particularly if not supplied with all the vitamins and minerals that they require, the hen will have trouble laying an egg. If the hen seems unable to move, quickly consult your avian veterinarian Without immediate help, the hen will die.
When the eggs hatch, place an unlimited supply of dry nestling food in the cage. The young require large amounts of this to fuel their rapid growth. You may also mix grated egg and carrot with the nestling food. This mix must be changed every two hours, for it rapidly spoils. If you are using pellets, no supplements are required, but will be enjoyed by your pets..
When you are certain that the young are eating on their own, give them a separate cage. Watch the young birds very carefully the first day away from ma and pa. Some babies might be eating but still require food from the parents.
After the young have been removed, the original pair will frequently go to nest again. Two nests are safe. Three are possible. After the third set of young, remove the nest. Now, put the birds in different cages. For the regular canary breeding cage, the dividers should be put back in. After breeding is finished expect your birds to begin to molt. Continue with the high protein food, so that they may regrow beautiful new feathers. Allow the birds to rest until next spring’s breeding season.

Source:  http://www.petcraft.com

Πέμπτη, 5 Ιανουαρίου 2017

Προετοιμασια για την αναπαραγωγικη περιοδο (αρθρο του Joel Geldof)

Η αναπαραγωγικη περιοδος των καναρινιων τυπου πρεπει να προετοιμασθει καταλληλα διοτι αν δεν δωσουμε μεγαλη προσοχη στην προετοιμασια, οι πιθανοτητες τα πραγματα να πανε ασχημα αυξανονται. Ας υποθεσουμε πως η αναπαραγωγικη περιοδος ξεκινα την 1η Μαρτιου. Η προετοιμασια τοτε, πρεπει να ξεκινησει περιπου την εποχη των Χριστουγεννων,επειδη παιρνει περιπου 10 εβδομαδες για να ολοκληρωθει.
Τα σημεια που χρειαζονται την περισσοτερη προσοχη αυτη την περιοδο του χρονου ειναι τα εξης
   1.   Η στεγαση των πουλιων
   2.   Οι γεννητορες
   3.   Το φως
   4.   Η θερμοκρασια
   5.   Η διατροφη.

Ας τα δουμε αναλυτικα....
Η ΣΤΕΓΑΣΗ ΤΩΝ ΠΟΥΛΙΩΝ
Τα θηλυκα πρεπει να μπουν σε μικρες ομαδες των 6 με 10 πουλιων και να τους δοθει αρκετος χωρος - μπορουν να μπουν σε μικρες κλουβες πτησης. Δωστε  στις θηλυκες αρκετο χωρο και να τις παρακολουθειται σε καθημερινη βαση. Τα αρσενικα πρεπει να μπουν στα κλουβια αναπαραγωγης ενα-ενα. Αυτη την περιοδο τα κλουβια αναπαραγωγης πρεπει να καθαριστουν και αν ειναι δυνατον να ραντιστουν με ενα προιον κατα της ψειρας.


ΟΙ ΓΕΝΝΗΤΟΡΕΣ
Θα ηταν καλο αυτη την εποχη να κανετε μια επισκεψη σε καποιο ειδικευμενο κτηνιατρο διοτι ακομα υπαρχει χρονος να γιατρευετι οτιδηποτε προκυψει απο τις εξετασεις που θα γινουν. Τα νυχια πρεπει να κοπουν και τα πουπουλα να να κουρευτουν για να δημιουργηθουν προβληματα στην γονιμοποιηση των αυγων. Βεβαια το κουρεμα ειναι κατι που μπορει να γινει και ενα μηνα πριν την αρχη της αναπαραγωγης. Πρεπει να προσφερεται στα πουλια μπανιο μια φορα την εβδομαδα.



ΤΟ ΦΩΣ
Απο τις πιο σημαντικες παραμετρους της προετοιμασιας!!! Ακριβως πριν την αρχη της προετοιμασιας ελαττωνουμε τη διαρκεια της μερας για περιπου 2 βδομαδες,αν ειναι δυνατον στις 8-9 ωρες. Μετα απο αυτο ξεκιναμε να δημιουργουμε μια "τεχνητη ανοιξη" με ενα πιο επιταχυμενο τροπο απο την φυσικη αλλαγη. Αρχιζοντας σταδιακα μεχρι να φτασουμε στις 14 ωρες στις 20 Φεβρουαριου. Τοσο θα μεινουν τα φωτα μεχρι το τελος της αναπαρωγικης σαιζον. Επειτα ξαναμειωνουμε τη διαρκεια. Πρεπει να ειστε σιγουροι πως το φως σε ολο το χωρο ειναι το ιδιο και αν υπαρχουν διαφορες τουλαχιστον φροντιστε τα αρσενικα να ειναι στις περιοχες με το περισσοτερο φως.


Η ΘΕΡΜΟΚΡΑΣΙΑ
Κατα την γνωμη μου, η θερμοκρασια ειναι λιγοτερο σημαντικος παραγοντας απο το φως. Παντα κοιταω να μην πεσει κατω απο τους 6 με 8 βαθμους Κελσιου. Εγω ομως εχω Borders & Yorkshires, αν καποιος εχει σγουρα πρεπει να κοιταει να εχει πιο ψηλες θερμοκρασιες απο τις δικες μου κατωτερες. Βεβαια οταν ξεκινησει η αναπαραγωγη, η θερμοκρασια δεν πρεπει να πεφετι κατω απο τους 15 βαθμους ωστε να μην υπαρχουν προβληματα.


Η ΔΙΑΤΡΟΦΗ
Μαζι με το φως, η διατροφη ειναι απο τους σημαντικοτερους παραγοντες.
Μειγμα σπορων
Επειδη τα αρσενικα και τα θηλυκα ειναι σε ξεχωριστα κλουβια μπορουμε να προσαρμοσουμε το μειγμα ξεχωριστα για το καθενα. Προσωπικα επιλεγω ενα μειγμα με περιπου 70-75% κεχρι αλλα στην προετοιμασια προσθετω νιζερ για τις θηλυκες και βρωμη για τους αρσενικους. Οι θηλυκες ετσι μπορει να παρουν λιγο παχος, το οποιο ομως ειναι μια "αποθηκη ενεργειας" που σιγουρα θα χρειαστουν ενω τα αρσενικα με τη βρωμη ερχονται και προετοιμαζονται καλυτερα για την αναπαραγωγη.
Αυγοτροφη
Αυτη την περιοδο η συχνοτητα που ταιζουμε αυγοτροφη αυξανεται. Στα τελη Δεκεμβριου ξεκιναμε να δινουμε καθε 5 μερες και σταδιακα αυξανουμε στις 3-4 φορες την εβδομαδα μεχρι τα τελη Φεβρουαριου. Μαζι με την αυγοτροφη μπορουν να δινονται και φυτρωμενοι σποροι
Βιταμινες
Κατα την προετοιμασια μπορει να χρησιμοποιηθει βιταμινη Ε για την γονιμοτητα των γεννητορων. Καλη επιτυχια σε ολους.


Ευχαριστω τον Αντωνη Μιχαλουδη για την  ευγενικη παραχωρηση του αρθρου.

Αλεξανδρινός Παπαγάλος (Psittacula eypatria)


Ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος ανήκει στην οικογένεια των parakeet, λέξη που σημαίνει μακριά ουρά. Είναι από τα μεγαλύτερα σε μέγεθος πουλιά της οικογένειας, που περιλαμβάνει αρκετά γνωστά μας είδη όπως τα παπαγαλάκια Budgie, την ροζέλα eastern, τον indian ringneck,τον Monk ή Quaker Parakeet αλλά και τα λιγότερα γνωστά regent, plum headed και derbyan.

Γνωρίστε τον Αλεξανδρινό παπαγάλο

O Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος συναντάται στην Κεϋλάνη, στο Ανατολικό Αφγανιστάν, Δυτικό Πακιστάν και μεταξύ Ινδίας και Ινδοκίνας. Ζούνε σε χαμηλό υψόμετρο σε μέρη όπως δάση, ζούγκλα αλλά και σε παραθαλάσσιες περιοχές.

Ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος ανήκει στο γένος Psittacula, που είναι γνωστό σαν Ringneck parakeets. Το γένος αυτό έχει σαν κύριο χαρακτηριστικό ένα χρωματιστό κολάρο γύρω από τον λαιμό στα αρσενικά πουλιά ή μια λωρίδα στην περιοχή του πηγουνιού. Ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος έχει μεγάλο κεφάλι, γεμάτο σώμα και μακριά ουρά. Το αρσενικό έχει γενικότερα πράσινο φτέρωμα ενώ στα μάγουλα έχει χρώμα σε τόνους γκρίζο-μπλε και κόκκινες κηλίδες στα φτερά πτήσης. Έχει μια ελαφριά μαύρη γραμμή από το ράμφος προς τα μάτια, μια μαύρη λωρίδα στο χαμηλότερο μέρος του μάγουλου και ένα φαρδύ ροζέ κολάρο. Το ράμφος του είναι βαθύ κόκκινο . Τα θηλυκά είναι ελαφρύτερα από τα αρσενικά και δεν έχουν το ροζέ κολάρο ή τις μαύρες λωρίδες κάτω από τα μάγουλα.

Μέγεθος του Αλεξανδρινού παπαγάλου

Ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος μπορεί να μεγαλώσει μέχρι τα 58 εκατοστά.

Προσδόκιμο ζωής

Ο μέσος όρος ηλικίας του μπορεί να φτάσει αυτό το είδος είναι τα 40 χρόνια.

Τι τρώει ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος

Ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος τρώει ποικιλία από σπόρους, φρούτα, λαχανικά αλλά και πέλετς εμπορίου. Ιδιαίτερη προτίμηση δείχνουν σε αμύγδαλα και καρύδια. Φυσικά μπορούν να ακολουθήσουν και την ανθρώπινη διατροφή όπως μαγειρεμένο κοτόπουλο, ρύζι και όσπρια με την προϋπόθεση όμως αυτές οι τροφές να μην μένουν παραπάνω από 4 ώρες στο κλουβί γιατί αλλοιώνονται. Τροφές όπως αβοκάντο, σοκολάτα κτλ που είναι επικίνδυνες για τους παπαγάλους πρέπει να αποφεύγονται. Φρέσκο νερό και φαγητό πρέπει να παρέχονται καθημερινά.

Διαμονή των Αλεξανδρινών παπαγάλων

Αυτό το μεγάλο σε μέγεθος είδος παπαγάλου χρειάζεται και αναλόγως μεγάλο κλουβί, τα παιχνίδια και οι πατήθρες του οποίου θα πρέπει να καθαρίζονται σε εβδομαδιαία βάση. Επειδή αυτά τα πουλιά λατρεύουν το πέταγμα θα πρέπει να μένουν εκτός κλουβιού για δυο ώρες τουλάχιστον για να ικανοποιήσουν αυτή την ανάγκη τους.

Κοινωνική συμπεριφορά

Στην φύση οι Αλεξανδρινοί παπαγάλοι ζούνε σε μικρά σμήνη κατά την διάρκεια της μέρας και ξεκουράζονται σε πολύ μεγαλύτερα σμήνη κατά την διάρκεια της νύχτας. Είναι πολύ ενεργητικά πουλιά. Εκτός από το να πετάνε που είναι πολύ σημαντικό για όλα τα Parakeets, αρέσκονται και να μασάνε. Πρέπει να τους παρέχονται αρκετά ξύλα για μάσημα, πολλά παιχνίδια και πατήθρες.

Σε αντίθεση με την πλειοψηφία των Parakeets, ο Αλεξανδρινός παπαγάλος δεν μένει με το ταίρι του για όλη την υπόλοιπη ζωή του. Το κάθε ζευγάρι χρειάζεται δυο φωλιές και μόλις επιλεγεί ηκατάλληλη φωλιά, η θηλυκή γεννάει 2-4 αυγά. Και οι δυο γονείς κλωσάνε τα αυγά. Τα νεαρά αρσενικά αποκτούν το τελικό τους φτέρωμα στην ηλικία των 2 ετών.

Προβλήματα συμπεριφοράς

Τα προβλήματα συμπεριφοράς των παπαγάλων συνήθως πηγάζουν από την έλλειψη εμπιστοσύνης, την μοναξιά και την ρουτίνα στη ζωή του πουλιού. Αυτό έχει σαν αποτέλεσμα συμπεριφορές όπως μάδημα φτερών, δαγκώματα και δυνατές κραυγές.

Διαθεσιμότητα

Τα πουλιά αυτά αναπαράγονται επιτυχώς σε αιχμαλωσία αν και δεν είναι πολύ συνηθισμένα στα ελληνικά πέτσοπ.

Πηγή http://animal-world.com   photo: http://alexhaven.doodlekit.com/

Κυριακή, 1 Ιανουαρίου 2017

The line breeding,an excellent article!

PERFECTING TRUE LINES

BRIAN KEENAN explains the logic of line breeding, including how to single out desirable characteristics using line and in-breeding genetics, with the aim of producing true-breeding birds. Most serious canary fanciers accept that the quickest way to establish a winning stud, which can in turn produce high quality young, is by line breeding. The question is: how to go about it.
If you take the example of a new fancier entering the hobby, most established breeders recommend starting with two pairs of birds. Ideally these have all been obtained from the same breeder, and so are already related, at least distantly. When line breeding, the important thing is to remove any foreign genes, so that more predictable results are obtained, and you can realistically work at improving your stock during each progressive breeding season.

Figure 1

shows how our initial pairings would work.

results, initial pairings.

Second Year pairing options.

Year 2 provides several opportunities. Assuming that a reasonable number of compatible young birds have been produced, it is possible to pair in several different ways. Pair 1 parents can be paired to their sons and daughters, similarly with pair 2. This is a much closer form of line breeding known as in-breeding. It is used to determine which parents are dominant over the strain.
The results are shown below:

results, second year pairings.

The above mating, assuming the original cock is true breeding, will produce birds which resemble their father, modified slightly because of the original mother birds influence on the pairing. If the results are markedly different, then the cock is not true breeding, and can be discarded from the breeding program.
You do have a second option of pairing brothers and sisters together, but this would not add to the genetic influence of any birds produced, as they would retain 50% of the original parental gene pool. It would however, produce birds of similar worth to their immediate parents, as far as the stud line is concerned. Fanciers talk of 'locking-in' or 'fixing' points within a stud, generally referring to in-breeding. Remember that you are not only fixing strong points, but also weak points at the same time, so be very careful how you use any resulting young, if you proceed along that particular route. In-breeding is extremely useful when you need to prove the dominance of a particular bird, or if you need to re-create a specific bird, for example if the original bird is getting beyond breeding age, but still has a powerful influence on your stud.
A third option available to you in your second year, is to cross mate the young from your original pair 1 to either the original pair 2 parents, or into the young produced from pair 2. This is why it is best to obtain all your birds from one initial source, as you are now extending the gene pool from which you are working. This is in fact an outcross, but introduced in a controlled manner.
The reason you may wish to pair this way is to introduce some desired point that is apparent throughout your second line, to strengthen your first line. Pairing a son from line 1 to a daughter from line 2, perhaps to introduce say better legs into line 1, would retain 25% of the original cock and 25% of the original hen blood, modified by the parental stock in line 2. Ideally, this second line contains similar good points to those possessed by your line 1 birds, and in addition, carries the added feature you are looking for.
It is pointless using birds which do not match the strengths of your existing line, as a mixed bag of young are certain to be produced, and you want to enhance the line the following season, rather than hasten it's decline.
From this cross, it is important to remember that you are looking for only one specific young bird - one that is compatible with your first line, but excels in the added feature you wish to adopt. If your in-breeding matings (see Fig 2 above) have proven that the original cock bird is dominant, then you are looking for a compatible hen, or vice-versa, and all other birds produced should be discarded.
It is worth pointing out here that experience fanciers tend to pair cock birds to two or more hens in the first year. This enables them through experience, to assess the quality of young produced in comparison with their father, and determine without the need for in-bred test matings, whether to continue to develop their stud around the cock bird, or not. As well as in-breeding in year 2, they are also able to pair half brothers and half sisters, and develop their line much more quickly, as a result.

Year 3 pairings.

The third year in the development of a line allows you to reproduce, almost as near as genetically possible, the original parental birds, modified slightly, by minimising the effects of other birds.
By pairing the original cock bird into one of his Year 2 daughters who herself carries 75% of his blood, the result is a nest of birds which carry 87.5% of the original fathers bloodline. They have been enhanced slightly, or there is little point in following this route, by the original mothers influence, but they have been produced to retain and maximise the cock birds characteristics. If he was an exceptional showbird - then everything being equal, so should they be - and you will have arrived!

results, year three pairings.
Remember that you can line breed and in-breed for any desirable point or characteristic, whether that is length, shoulder, head qualities, feeding, fertility, vitality, or any other point you require. Unlike genetic engineers, canary breeders are unable to single out individual genes, but they can produce true breeding birds, if proceeding down the line breeding route.
One final point about line breeding. By choosing your original stock wisely, you minimise the need to obtain additional birds in any great numbers, assuming you achieve average success in the breeding room. Even if that is the case, the developing fancier is wise to go back to his original source regularly, for a single bird each year, which itself has been bred from the same source line of birds. It will fit your line, and will contain the points you are currently developing, therefore acting as a controlled outcross, and adding to the line you are developing, rather than taking anything away. After all, if you went to a successful breeder, he will have retained his better birds for his own use, so by revisiting him, you are playing to the studs strengths, which will immediately benefit your own birds.
The alternative, is to pair breed on face value only, having obtained birds from different sources, which are not related in any way.
These birds will produce haphazard results at best, and introduce many undesirable features, which you will have no chance of controlling, and which will continue to be unpredictable, year after year. Line breeding offers a progressive route forward, which most serious fanciers practice to the best of their abilities, as they go about producing and enhancing their studs.
Ask any top champion you choose - the answer is likely to be the same - they line breed to help ensure their continued success.


Source :  http://www.yccuk.com/