Κυριακή, 26 Μαρτίου 2017

Rene Alssema, the famous Gloster Breeder!


Rene Alssema is one of the greatest breeders in Gloster canaries..He lives in Netherlands and started to keep birds at the age of 10 years.He became a champion in Gloster at the age of fifteen.He is talented for sure.He will explain and describe his fancy.The photos are copyrighted by Rene Alssema...

Tell us, why you choose to breed Glosters...
"In addition to the Gloster also Cresten, Norwichs and Borders cultivated.
Despite good success with these varieties was decided to only continue Gloster in 2003.
Often, it is written that the gloster is a beginner bird.
I like the Gloster still one of the toughest races.
The development of this race never stops and the competition is huge.
The quality of the birds of many growers is very close.
The trick is to maintain quality.
You win based on small differences.
Unfortunately, we see dominating the green or variegated green color.
I am a lover of different colors.
Back in 1983 I wrote in "Our Birds" a comprehensive report on the different colors of the Gloster.
Unfortunately we still see little other colors after many years".



Rene, describe us your birdroom...
 "My Gloster are housed in a residence of six meters long and three meters wide.
The walls are tiled and lying on the floor tiles.
There is central heating and a sink with hot and cold running water.
The breeding cages of the rear wall (laminated chip board with extendable between walls) are 55 cm x 55 cm x 50 cm.
These large breeding cages to be sightseeing flights to 4.50 meters long.
None of the cages are made drawers, because this is an ideal hiding place for pests.
On the right is a 12-piece breeding cage.
Each breeding loft is 60 cm wide, 60 cm deep and 50 cm high.
The partition walls are here also pull-out, which may be realized four flights of 180 cm in length". 




Give us a few details about the nutrition that you prefer
 
"I give my bird a seed mix, which also is black seed throughout the year.
Eggfood they receive throughout the year, in the winter months, twice a week.
From my first breeding year he makes a eggfood own "concoction" half consists of plant food and the other half.
The latter consists of an amount of coarse "bread flour" equal to the amount of ready - ready eggfood.
It was added that three hard-boiled eggs, sprouted seed (in nylon stocking), half a tablespoon of seaweed, a half tablespoon brewer's yeast powder and half a tablespoon of grape.
All this is slightly moistened with a dash Roosvicee.

The boy's parents are away, also have regular cooked rice (lots of carbohydrates - and lots of easily digestible quick energy!")

We want to know how Rene Alssema choose his breeding pairs.
 "Compounding the breeding pairs is determined by many factors.
This particular bloodlines play a major role.

Despite the standard, there are many different types of Gloster.
I personally like short and round.
But if you want to improve the crest and color,
which you have to deal quickly with some English and Belgian bloodlines,
whose wings and tails are long and there is no charge in the "ass".

After many years I own a hard core of strong genetic Gloster.
The birds which you know for years what's in and what comes out.
So the cinnamon line is the most stable in my culture.
The type is just ingrained.
Here I grow in very close family connection.
"Especially your taste you have to follow as much as possible."
So I have an aversion to Gloster with loose edges.
Ultimately, I think you should have all the good feather structures in your base and you based compensation should try to cultivate a short, full, round Gloster with a tight spring and a warm color. "

The culture results are carefully recorded in the computer ,
without the use of a special breeding program.

basically continues each couple throughout the breeding season together.
I've had bad experiences with exchange breeding.
Often walked dolls nest whether the eggs were infertile.

Problems in the culture you come every year v.
you work with living material.
If you think that all the growth is in top condition, you have once again one of the most beautiful birds sick.
Connect your paper the ideal combination,
in practice they make each other almost ready and you will need to look for other partners.
Got the boy almost independently, the man picks up the boy's death.
there is something different every year". 










Παρασκευή, 24 Μαρτίου 2017

Απεγκλωβισμος νεοσσου απο το αυγο, οδηγιες και video απο τον Κων.Κοσμη!!

Ένα πρόβλημα που αντιμετωπίζουμε στην εσωτερική εκτροφή είναι η χαμηλή υγρασίας Οι νεοσσοί για να έχουν σωστή ανάπτυξη θέλουν σταθερή θερμοκρασία και σταθερή υγρασία . Την θερμοκρασία την μεταφέρουν τα θηλυκά από το σώμα τους η υγρασία ανάλογα με τα καιρικά φαινόμενα έχει διαφορές προς τα πάνω άλλα και προς τα κάτω τις ζεστές ήμερες . Σε κλειστό χώρο είναι θεμιτό να έχουμε αφυγραντιρα άλλα και πάλι δεν είναι σίγουρο ότι στα κάτω κάτω κλουβιά θα έχει το επιθυμητό 65% περίπου .
Στο παρακατω video  δείχνω πως μπορούμε να επέμβουμε ώστε να απεγκλωβίσουμε ένα νεοσσό από το αυγό του .


Πριν ξεκινήσουμε τον απεγκλωβισμό είναι επιβεβλημένο να έχουμε όχι άπλα καθαρά χέρια άλλα απολυμασμένα . Καθαρίζουμε τα χέρια μας καλα με σαπούνι , σκουπίζουμε και απολυμαίνουμε με αντισηπτικό πολύ καλά .Τέλος ξεβγάζουμε πολύ καλά με σκέτο τρεχούμενο νερό .

Έχουμε δει ότι ο νεοσσός έχει κάνει την προσπάθεια του ,έχει κάνει τρυπούλα στο κέλυφος Αφήστε τον περίπου 45 με 50 λεπτά να το παλέψει πριν επέμβετε .

εάν στα 50 λεπτά δεν έχει καταφέρει να απεγκλωβιστεί είναι σίγουρο ότι θα πέθανε από εξάντληση μέσα το κέλυφος

πιάνουμε το αυγό και μια βελόνα από καινούργια σύριγγα Βάζουμε το αυγό στην παλάμη μας με την τρυπούλα προς τα πάνω .

Στο ύψος της τρύπας πιέζουμε οριζόντια και περιμετρικά στο κέλυφος ώστε να νιώσουμε ότι έχει χαραχθεί η έχει σπάσει το τσόφλι . Η πίεση που ασκούμε στο κέλυφος είναι βασικό να ξεκινάει ακριβως στην τρύπα που έχει κάνει ο νεοσσός γιατί εκεί είναι ο λαιμός του διπλωμένος δεν ακουμπάει στο τσόφλι και δεν μπορούμε να του κάνουμε ζημιά . Οπού άλλου προσπαθήσουμε να πιέσουμε είναι πολύ πιθανόν να του τραυματίσουμε κάποιο ζωτικής σημασίας όργανο

Το πιο πιθανόν είναι με το που τελειώσετε την οριζόντια πίεση σε όλη την περίμετρο του αυγού ο νεοσσός θα απεγκλωβιστεί μόνος του με ένα καλό τέντωμα που θα κάνει .

Προσοχή θέλει την ώρα που θα τραβάμε το πίσω κομμάτι  του κελύφους Εκεί μπορεί να βρουμε λιγο αίμα και λιγο κίτρινο υγρό είναι ο ομφαλός του και ο πλακούντας οπου πριν ξεκινήσει τον απεγκλωβισμό του έχει ρουφήξει τον κρόκο από το αυγό .

Γιατί είναι σημαντικό να έχει ξεκινήσει την έξοδο από το κέλυφος ο νεοσσός ? Ετσι ήμαστε σίγουροι ότι έχει απορροφηθεί ο κρόκος και ότι έχει δύναμη να αντεπεξέλθει τις πρώτες ώρες της ζωής του .

Ένα άλλο φαινόμενο είναι να έχει κολλήσει στο κεφάλι του κομμάτι από τσόφλι Λόγο μεγάλης ξηρασίας στο εσωτερικό  μέρος του αυγού .

Σε αυτήν την περίπτωση βρέχουμε ένα βαμβάκι με φυσιολογικό ορό και το  ακουμπάμε στο ξεραμένο τσόφλι ,αυτό απορροφάει υγρασία και έτσι με λεπτές κινήσεις είναι πιο εύκολο να το ξεκολλήσουμε από το κεφάλι του . Προσοχή θέλει πολύ λετες κινησεις καταλαβαίνετε ότι το στρες που έχει υποβληθεί είναι τεράστιο για τον νεοσσό .

Ελπίζω να βοήθησα να σωθεί κάποιος μικρός μας φίλος

Εκτροφέας Κοσμης Κωνσταντίνος (Παγκοσμιος Πρωταθλητης στις ρατσες yorkshire,norwich και crest)

Δευτέρα, 20 Μαρτίου 2017

Καρτελλα αναπαραγωγης !


Μια απλη καρτελλα αναπαραγωγης με τα βασικα στοιχεια για τους γεννητορες και τους νεοσσους. Απο την ημερα που εχει βγει το τριτο αυγο γνωριζεις την ημερομηνια επωασης,εκκολαψης και δαχτυλιδωματος, την σημειωνεις στην καρτελλα και ανατρεχεις τις καταλληλες ημερομηνιες για να πραξεις αναλογα.  Εχεις και το αρχειο με τα δαχτυλιδια των νεοσσων, τον αριθμο κλουβιου,τους γεννητορες οποτε στην ιδια σελιδα εχεις και τα αδερφια συγκεντρωτικα (σε περιπτωση που σταματας στις δυο γεννες).Αν δεν σας καλυψει η συγκεκριμενη,σιγουρα θα ειναι ενας καλος οδηγος για να φτιαξετε την δικη σας με τις καταλληλες προσθηκες βασει των αναγκων σας.Απλα τυπωστε το.


                                           ΚΑΡΤΕΛΛΑ ΑΝΑΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΗΣ




Κυριακή, 5 Μαρτίου 2017

Black spot , an article by Dr Rob Marshall.





The difficulties experienced in the control of Black Spot in canaries maybe a result of the many possible causes of an enlarged spleen and liver.
Black Spot is a poorly understood but common finding in canary chicks (1-5 days of age) and juveniles (2-9 months of age). Black Spot refers to the symptom of a black spot on the abdomen of canaries that appears when the spleen, liver or both organs become enlarged because of infection. Black Spot occurs in all varieties of canaries and may spread from one variety to another.
The two main causes of Black Spot are Circovirus and Coccidiosis (Atoxoplasmosis). Oronithosis, bacterial septicaemias and other blood parasites (Avian Malaris (Plasmodium), Haemoproteus and Trypanosoma) may also cause Black Spot. German researchers believe Mycoplasma to be the main cause of Black Spot in Europe. Red mites, biting flies, mosquitos and house sparrows spread these blood parasites. Labored breathing is a symptom seen with these blood parasites.
Black Spot & Circovirus
Circovirus has been incriminated as a cause of the disease that kills nestlings between the ages of one and five days of age. Black Spot caused by Circovirus produces a black spot on the right side of the abdomen in those birds with the disease. Symptoms of Black Spot may appear in nestlings as young as one day of age. Infected nestlings are weak and fail to accept food from their parents, have an empty crop and eventually die by three to four days of age. This form of Black Spot is difficult to cure.
Black Spot & Mycoplasma Infection
European investigators believe there is a relationship between Black Spot and Mycoplasma infection. These researchers belive a Pre-Breeding Cleansing Program using Tylosine cleans the carrier birds of Mycoplasma infection. This treatment is thought to eliminate the Mycoplasma infection from the flock and control Black Spot during the breeding Season.
Black Spot and Coccidiosis (Atoxoplasmosis)
A blood form of Coccidiosis called Atoxoplasmosis may cause Black Spot. Coccidiosis infection caused by Isospora serini remains the most likely cause of the Black Spot disease in juveniles under a year of age. This disease is also known as Atoxoplasmosis. It is a coccidiosis parasite that differs from the common form of coccidiosis infection caused by Isospora canaria. Coccidiosis is normally restricted to the intestinal epithelium whereas Atoxoplasmosis (a form of coccidiosis caused by caused by Isospora serine) multiplies in the intestine, invades blood cells and then spreads by the blood stream to infect the liver, lung and spleen.
Atoxoplasmosis infection produces black spots on both sides of the abdomen, a sign that indicates both spleen and liver enlargement. Stoxoplasmosis is thought to be an intermediate form of part of the life cycle of Coccidiosis (Isospora spp).
Symptoms of Black Spot due to Atoxoplasmosis appear in birds under a year old. After this time adult birds may remain infected but show no outward signs of infection. Adult carriers may continue to be contagious for 8 months.
Infected youngsters become listless and huddle, ruffle their feathers into a ball, go light, develop a bloated abdomen, diarrhea and sometimes exhibit neurological signs. Mortality rates may reach as high as 80% of the young bird flock. Infection is more common in outdoor aviaries and crowded flights.
Carrier Birds
"Carrier Birds" are thought to infect their young when feeding. Both cock and hen may be carriers but more commonly the hen is the cause as she commonly rears them by herself. She may be continually re-infected by her own black spot germs (oocysts) while cleaning the nest of droppings. Black spot occurs more commonly in nests with a first time mother, hens older than three years of age and from a family known to be susceptible to Black spot. Conditions that weaken the immune system, namely Ornithosis, inbreeding and molding disease, may predispose the canary flock to black spot disease. In previously healthy flocks, Ornithosis and molding disease are the most likely triggers of the disease.
Diagnosis is difficult in the live bird because coccidial oocysts are rarely found in droppings or intestinal smears and because of the acute nature of the disease. Special impression smears taken from the lung, liver and spleen of dead birds help to diagnose Atoxoplasmosis.
Black Spot Control and Prevention
There is no medical cure of Black Spot. The best avenue is to eliminate those families susceptible to black spot and to control conditions that predispose canaries to this complex disease. Similar measures must be taken irrespective of the cause of black spot. Good hygiene, nutrition and disease prevention help control the Black Spot.
Good hygiene (e.g., F-Vite rather than grit), improved nutrition and disease control (Ornithosis treatments for the resident flock and for new birds in quarantine) play important roles in aviaries where black spot is an intermittent problem. The introduction of new birds that carry the disease, poor nutrition and hygiene, overcrowding or contaminated food are the common causes of black spot in flocks previously free of the disease. Pre-breeding programs aimed at eliminating disease such as Psittacosis and preparing the birds for breeding are an essential part in the control of black spot. The use of water cleansers, such as KD, and attention to strict hygienic in the preparation of soft food and sprouted seed also help to control black spot.
Black Spot Symptoms
Nest Signs

Black spot is more prevalent in the first and third rounds. This finding supports the view that the disease should be able to be controlled naturally in strong individuals when they are housed and looked after properly. Deaths of nestlings between one and five days of age should be assumed to be Black Spot until proven otherwise.
Eggs
Black spot should be considered as a cause of a green/black colored, pungent smelling fully developed embryo found in "dead in shell" eggs. Black Spot appears to have little effect on fertility.
Nestlings (0-5 days of age)
Black spot may be confirmed in nestlings between one and five days of age by the presence of the black spot on the abdomen. Some fanciers believe Black Spot occurs more frequently with poor parents because hand-feeding helps some infected chicks to survive. These chicks, however, remain "carriers" for life and pose a significant health risk when moved from the nest into weaning cages.
Many nests with Black Spot deaths also rear perfectly normal chicks. Some of these apparently healthy nestings may in fact be "carrier" birds and the cause of Black Spot outbreaks that occur in crowded juvenile flights.
Juveniles (2-9 months of age)
Black spot may also infect juveniles between two and nine months of age. The infected birds become fluffed up, have watery diarrhea and stop eating. Up to 80% of the flock may die from this incurable disease. A black spot (enlarged liver and spleen) and bloated abdomen (dilated bowel loops) are sign of Black Spot that may be seen through the transparent abdomen wall. Outbreaks occur in aviaries crowded with young birds where Black Spot has occurred during the breeding season. This type of Black Spot is related to Atoxoplasmosis.
Adult Birds
It appears that older birds acquire immunity to black spot with only carrier birds being susceptible to the disease when their health has been compromised.
Black Spot (Circovirus): Methods for Preventing

  1. Identify and eliminate susceptible individuals and families.
  2. Control diseases (Ornithosis, Molding Disease from contaminated sprouted seed, soft food or grit) that damage the immune system and predispose canaries to Black Spot.
  3. Practice good hygiene, nutrition and quarantine measures.
  4. Pay strict attention to the hygienic preparation of soft foods and sprouted seed to help avoid Molding Disease and E.coli infections.
  5. Use Baycox as part of a control plan against Black Spot during the Young Bird, Molt and Pre- Breeding Programs.
  6. Implement a Pre-Breeding Program that eliminates diseases such as Ornithosis and helps prepare birds for breeding.
  7. Use KD Water Cleanser on a weekly basis.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Source :  http://ladygouldianfinch.com   (photo: www.Heidles.co.uk)

Σάββατο, 25 Φεβρουαρίου 2017

Interview with the great Gloster breeder, Rob Wright, a true gentleman of our fancy!

Rob Wright,the top class gloster breeder and judge, is a true gentleman of our fancy. It was great honor and pleasure to talk with him and learn from a great master.I am sure that you will enjoy his interview.We are proud to interact with breeders like Rob and try to understand the culture about bird breeding.








Q.1: In what age did you start breeding canaries?

I come from a family who kept birds.My father kept pigeons, Border canaries and I kept European Finches, My uncle also kept a large variety of cage birds. I kept the european finches from five years old till I was about sixteen. I started again when I was 23/24 it was then I saw my first gloster and started keeping this breed shortly afterwards. My father joined me as a partner a couple of years later and this lasted till my father died in about 1995. Meanwhile my son wasjudging and exhibiting fife canaries, he than joined me as a partner and this is how we are today. I have had the gloster canaries for about 44 years.

Q.2: Why did you decide to breed Gloster canaries? it was family tradition? Love at first sight or you just like this type?

it was the crest that first attracted me, then the quick movement and size. It was the first time I had seen any living crested canary.


Q.3: How many pairs do you breed now? The past years?

When my father and I were working the most we ever kept was twenty hens each. when we retired I the most I have bred with is about fifty five hens. The last few years I have been steadily reducing the number of hens, last year it was thirty four gloster hens
 
Q.4: How many square meters is your bird room?

I have had many birdrooms this last one is about thirty square meters. I have reduced my cages down to one hundred and twenty, these are 37 cm wide, 31cm high and 30 cm deep. they are built in blacks of fifteen and when breeding the hen has two cages. 

Q.5: Do you have sun lighting or lamps?

The birdroom has fully controlled lighting with automatic sunrise and sunset. We breed very early for England so we need extra lighting and also heating.
 
Q.6: What type of cages do you use?
The normal type of breeding cage.


Q.7: What are their dimensions?

37 cm wide, 31cm high and 30 cm deep. they are built in blacks of fifteen and when breeding the hen has two cages.
 
Q.8: Do you think that a flight cage is necessary? What dimensions do you prefer?

We very much like flight cages, I have twelve which range from 150cm wide and one metre high to 200cm wide and one metre high. All the birds spend a lot of time in these flights, only for the breeding season and for some the exhibtion season are they in cages.
 
Q.9: Do you have the same mixture of seeds whole the year? What do you change per season?

Our feeding system is very complicated and would be difficult for me to describe with my typing ability but simplified we feed a good mixed seed for most of the year apart from the moult but we add many other ingredients depending on what time of the year it is. .
 
Q.10: What type of egg food do you use?

The eggfood is a mixture of two types, Feast from birdcare products and Deli nature but we add some other products to this depending on what time of the year it is. We both think the feeding of canaries is much more important than most breeders realize .

Q.11: How many times per year do you disinfect your bird room?

We wash and disinfect the cages at least twice a year and paint them once a year.
 
Q.12: Can you tell us a tip, what to do when we are choosing the birds to be pairs? benefits of cocks, benefits of hens etc.

How we pair our birds up might differ from many other breeders because we know the background and pedigree of our birds, we have different "traits" in different lines but to generalize again, we are normally combining different feather types to produce what we want. This might be very difficult for someone who is a recent starter with glosters or who has many new birds from different breeders. We find it very difficult to pair any new birds we get because we don't know their pedigree This is the reason we get very few birds from other breeders, this year we have two birds, one which is 50% ours and one which we have had for four years.

Q.13: How many births do you have from one pair?

Our hens rear their young ones on there own, the male birds are kept on there own and are introduced the female around 17/18 days. This gives us flexibility in moving male birds about with more than one hen and no damage to the baby birds.With this system we are happy to average from all our hens 3,5 babies per year and normally its closer to 4. .

  Q.14: Do you use foster parents? what type of canaries?

We don't use any foster parents for any of the gloster stud
 
Q.15: In what age do you start the training for the young birds?

For many years we have not trained the baby glosters. The gloster consorts remain in the flights till about 2/3 weeks before the first show, the gloster coronas are caged, one per cage, when they start to moult their crest. We occasionally put the baby coronas in training cages to show visitors but often their first real time in a showcage is when they go to their first show. To enable us to use this system, over 25 years ago we selected only birds which were happy to be exhibited, if we have any birds which are not happy to be at a show we do not exhibit them

Q.16: How often do you add new birds from other breeders in your stock?
The longest we have went without introducing any bird was 16 years, its never been more than 4/5 in one year. How we do this is by exchanging birds with other breeders in Europe Like other successful breeders we are always interested in how our birds combine with other strains
 
Q.17: , do you think that the present gloster canary needs more improvement?

Of course we think we think gloster canaries need to be improved, I have never seen the perfect gloster and if I did I would want every baby to be perfect.

Q.18: What do you think about the level of Greek gloster canaries, ? What is your opinion about the Greek breeders?

I have only judged in Greece once a few years ago and judged about 300 glosters, so this restricts my opinion. In my view there were some good glosters but only in the "hands" of a few breeders, this makes it very difficult for novice breeders to obtain good stock over a number of years and this makes the progress of improving each breeders glosters a slow process. This reminds me of when we started with glosters in the early 1970's, any glosters were difficult to buy and especially coronas but because many breeders wanted to keep glosters it gradually improved and of course in the end you have to breed your own birds. I did not visit any greek gloster breeders when I visited so its difficult to give an opinion but I remember thinking how most breeders were very enthusiastic about breeding glosters but had a problem obtaining good stock.


Q.19: Do you think that all the European clubs of Glostere canaries can be joined to one club?
  I have visited many countries in Europe and America judging glosters and they all have a slightly different ideas on what is the perfect gloster and also i think it would be impossible to get one set of rules that everyone would agree to. You must remember some of us are very competitive people by nature in most things we do. I wonder what advantage it would be, one club

 Q.20: All these years that you are breeding canaries, have you met interesting people in this hobby, do you have good friends in all over the world, friends that you will never have if you are not related with this hobby

 Yes since i was young man I have been making friends all over the world and most have remained friends from the beginning when we were all novices. As I get older the drive to win exhibitions reduces and I come to realize its the friendship that is the most important thing about the hobby.

Πέμπτη, 23 Φεβρουαρίου 2017

A 10 weeks breeding season programm by Victor Xerri!



There are many theories and programms for the breeding season. Each breeder has a programm based on his needs which programm depends on the location, the species, his time and of course his money that he wants to spend for his stock.
I present you the 10 weeks Breeding season programm of the the Great Gloster breeder Victor Xerri.A programm tottally successful according to his results.An easy programm that you can follow it step by step, day by day. You can only add fruits any time you want and you have them.A programm with NO SECRETS !!! Good luck!




W E E K   1
SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES
11 in 1




TUE YES
11 in 1




WED YES YES

NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
THU YES






FRI YES






SAT YES

CALCILUX



SUN YES

CALCILUX















W E E K   2













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES
11 in 1




TUE YES
11 in 1




WED YES YES

NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
THU YES






FRI YES






SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX















W E E K   3













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES
11 in 1




TUE YES YES 11 in 1
NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
WED YES






THU YES






FRI YES YES

NEKON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX















W E E K   4













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES
11 in 1




TUE YES YES 11 in 1
NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
WED YES






THU YES






FRI YES YES

NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX
























W E E K   5













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES
11 in 1




TUE YES YES 11 in 1
NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
WED YES






THU YES






FRI YES YES

NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX















W E E K   6













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES YES 11 in 1


BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
TUE YES
11 in 1




WED YES YES

NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
THU YES






FRI YES YES

NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX















W E E K   7













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX

BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
TUE YES
11 in 1 CALCI LUX



WED YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
THU YES

CALCI LUX



FRI YES YES
CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX















W E E K   8













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX

BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
TUE YES
11 in 1 CALCI LUX



WED YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
THU YES

CALCI LUX



FRI YES YES
CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird
BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
SAT YES

CALCI LUX



SUN YES

CALCI LUX















W E E K   9













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX

BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
TUE YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX


SOAK SEED
WED YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird

SOAK SEED
THU YES YES
CALCI LUX

BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
FRI YES YES
CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird

SOAK SEED
SAT YES YES
CALCI LUX


SOAK SEED
SUN YES YES
CALCI LUX

BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED












W E E K   10













SEED SOFTFOOD VITAMINS CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT SUPPLEMENT VEGETABLES CONDITION SEEDS
MON YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX
VITAMIN E + SELENIUM BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
TUE YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX
VITAMIN E + SELENIUM
SOAK SEED
WED YES YES 11 in 1 CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird VITAMIN E + SELENIUM
SOAK SEED
THU YES YES
CALCI LUX
VITAMIN E + SELENIUM BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED
FRI YES YES
CALCI LUX NEKTON-Biotic-Bird VITAMIN E + SELENIUM
SOAK SEED
SAT YES YES
CALCI LUX
VITAMIN E + SELENIUM
SOAK SEED
SUN YES YES  CALCI LUX VITAMIN E + SELENIUM BROCCOLI + PEAS SOAK SEED